After viewing Hidden Heroes, I went upstairs to check out Around the Table. I was pleasantly surprised even though I should know better by now. The San José Museum of Art takes risks which pay off more often than not. This show was no exception. Was it a mixed bag? Of course. But there is more good than bad and the good that’s there is all stuff I enjoyed very much.
Food is a tough concept to base an exhibition on. It’s so loaded and personal and wide-ranging that you can go anywhere and everywhere and fail to satisfy everyone. Lots of pieces which use food as a medium. Some work better than others but they don’t really explore the concept of food for me.
Where this show works best is when it touches on how food impacts people and places. Angela Buenning Filo’s Orchard photos and David Burns and Austin Young’s Fallen Fruit in particular stand out for the way they reference Silicon Valley’s past of fruit farms and canneries and pull that history into the present day.
I also really liked Karla Diaz’s Prison Gourmet and the War Gastronomy Food Cart.*Both of these pieces address how food and recipes are more than just sustenance. They’re creativity and survival and tradition which we adapt and create for whatever our current situations are. Sharing recipes, making due, the way food impacts our memories of time and place. It’s important to explore all of these aspects of food and realize how rich and complicated it is.
*Something that I’d seen previously at YBCA but hadn’t fully digested at the time.
Other pieces I liked?
I could have spent a lot more time with Rosemary Williams’s Supermarket than I did. It’s great. It’s a combination of Gursky and Adbusters. It demonstrates how abstract and corporate the food we purchase is—especially when displayed just across the room from works which show actual food sources. It makes us think about how our food choices are dictated by brands and placement on shelves. It forces us to confront how little choice most people have regarding their food sources.* I’d love to know what supermarket and where in the country this is because I think it would be absolutely fascinating to compare regions and chains.
*Worth noting that the ethnic aisle is full of choice brandwise.
And Jitish Kallat’s Epilogue is a moving memorial to a life. Illustrating each day of someone’s life is already a provocative memorial. Doing it with moon phases touches something deep and primal in us; I’m never fully aware of the moon, but I also know that I look for it and notice it each day. Illustrating the moon phases with roti seems more clever than interesting, but it’s abstract enough that it becomes more of a meditation on life, time, and what sustains everyone. I wasn’t expecting to like this but I did.
There’s also a gallery which is intended to provoke more interaction and make visitors rethink food and our usage of it. A lot of good things in there. One of the factoids in particular struck me though.
Specifically, it claims that food waste makes up 21% of landfills now. This is presented as a bad thing. At the same time, I remember being a kid and learning that paper waster was ~80% of all landfills. So my initial reaction was more of a, “holy crap, this is GREAT, look how much recycling has helped!” than any rue about how much food we waste.