One of the nice discoveries about being in Waikoloa was that it was literally right next door to the Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail. That trail, while it doesn’t yet go around the island, does cover, at some level, most of the leeward side.
In Waikoloa it’s known as the King’s Road and is a maintained path through the lava beds. There’s a wonderful petroglyph field along it less than a quarter mile from the resort. The petroglyphs are in a section of the trail where people often had to wait for permission to pass. While they waited they camped on the lava by fashioning crescent-shaped wind shields out of the loose rock and scratching drawings into the beds.
Now there’s a golf course on both sides and the trail is the only real lava left in the area. Despite the greenness surrounding the petroglyph field, the heat is brutal as it both radiates off the lava and comes from the sun. Coupled with the lava itself and how hard and sharp it is I can’t imagine how rough and brutal the terrain was a couple hundred years ago.